Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
